I really like the way the light comes through the top of the wave and also how the surfer seems to hang on the edge of the wave. Hang Ten dude....:-)...keep on taking those pics :-).
Actually the subject is not a surfer, but a skim boarder. I've done both and there's a small difference. Skimboarding you start from running, skimming your board on the thin layer of water on the shorebreak, jumping on it and riding it out to the waves. Surfing you start from the waves.
I haven't skimmed in years, but this photo definitely captured a really good ride. Skimming all the way out to a wave is hard enough, but to turn around and ride the wave in rocks.
Mike-
I think skimming has changed a lot since you made that varnished plywood disc you had in 7th grade :P
And yeah - this photo is ripper! I only wish the rider wasn't so centered. I would have cropped it so that he's farther over to the right side, to follow the "Rule-of-Thirds." It would have been nice to hold the detail in the spray, too. The rule for digital is to shoot dark to hold the highlights. You have a lot of room to adjust the shadows, but once the highlights are blown, they're gone for good.
Photo-John
Skimboarding you start from running, skimming your board on the thin layer of water on the shorebreak, jumping on it and riding it out to the waves. Surfing you start from the waves.